The legendary Shakespeare & Company bookstore is far more than a shop — it is a literary sanctuary, a bohemian landmark, and one of the most beloved cultural spaces in Paris. Nestled on the Left Bank across from Notre-Dame Cathedral, this quaint, green-painted bookshop has been a haven for writers, thinkers, and dreamers for nearly a century. To step inside is to enter a world where books spill across shelves, where reading nooks invite quiet escape, and where literature itself seems to live and breathe.
The story of Shakespeare & Company actually begins with Sylvia Beach, an American expatriate who opened the first shop in 1919 on Rue de l’Odéon. Her store quickly became a gathering place for the “Lost Generation” — writers like Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ezra Pound, and Gertrude Stein. It was here that Beach published Joyce’s Ulysses in 1922, a daring act that made literary history. Though this original shop closed during World War II, its spirit was reborn in 1951.
The current Shakespeare & Company was founded by George Whitman, another American, who envisioned it as a “socialist utopia masquerading as a bookstore.” Situated in a 17th-century building overlooking the Seine, it became a beacon for generations of writers, travelers, and intellectuals. Whitman famously opened its doors to aspiring writers, who could stay overnight among the bookshelves in exchange for working in the store and writing a page of their life story. Over 30,000 “Tumbleweeds,” as they were called, found a home here.
Inside, the shop is a labyrinth of narrow staircases, low beams, and cozy reading rooms filled with the scent of old paper and ink. Typewriters, notes left by past visitors, and beds tucked between the shelves give it an atmosphere unlike any other bookstore in the world. A piano waits in one corner, free for anyone to play, while upstairs a reading library offers a quiet refuge. The store continues to host book launches, readings, and literary festivals, keeping alive the vibrant community Sylvia Beach began over a century ago.
Today, Shakespeare & Company is not only a bookstore but a symbol — of the freedom to create, the magic of stories, and the eternal bond between Paris and literature. Whether you come to browse its shelves, join a reading, or simply feel the spirit of Hemingway and Joyce in the air, it is a place where the past and present of literary Paris meet in perfect harmony.
Why You Should Visit
- To explore one of the world’s most iconic independent bookstores.
- To stand where legends like Hemingway and Joyce once gathered.
- To soak in the bohemian spirit of Paris’s Left Bank.
- To browse rare editions, English-language classics, and new works.
Practical Information
Tickets & Entry
- Free entry.
- Books, souvenirs, and café items available for purchase.
- Occasional ticketed readings and events (€5–15).
Opening Hours
- Daily: 10:00 – 22:00.
Best Time to Visit
- Morning: Quieter atmosphere, easier browsing.
- Afternoon: Lively with tourists and book lovers.
- Evening: Magical views of Notre-Dame lit across the river.
- Spring & Autumn: Best for enjoying the neighborhood and riverside strolls.
Getting There
- Metro: Saint-Michel (Line 4), Cluny–La Sorbonne (Line 10).
- RER: Saint-Michel – Notre-Dame (Lines B & C).
- Bus: Multiple routes stop at Place Saint-Michel.
- Walking: Located directly across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral.
Insider Tips
- Ask the staff about the “Tumbleweeds” tradition and see if you can spot their handwritten notes.
- Head upstairs to the library room — it’s free, but many miss it.
- Don’t skip the Shakespeare & Company Café next door for coffee and views of Notre-Dame.
- Book lovers: set aside at least 1–2 hours; the shelves are endless.
- If you buy a book, request the shop’s custom stamp, a collector’s item for bibliophiles.
Quick Facts
- Founded: 1919 (original), 1951 (current location).
- Founder: Sylvia Beach (original), George Whitman (current).
- Famous Guests: Hemingway, Joyce, Fitzgerald, Stein, Pound.
- Nickname: “Tumbleweeds” for the writers who stayed here.
- Legacy: Published Ulysses and hosted generations of literary icons.
Final Thoughts
Shakespeare & Company is not just a bookstore — it is a living piece of Paris’s cultural soul. From its early days nurturing literary giants to its current role as a sanctuary for book lovers worldwide, it remains a place where stories, ideas, and people come together. Whether you are a casual visitor or a lifelong reader, entering Shakespeare & Company feels like stepping into a chapter of literary history — one that is still being written every day.
